Ying Feng,Bin Li,Juan Hu,Wei Liu,Xufang Tian,Yongxing Chen,Shan Lu,Yifei Liu
The essential oil extracted from the flowers of Chrysanthemum indicum var. aromaticum (CIA) has excellent biological properties; however, the stems and leaves of CIA often get wasted. Maximizing the use of these wastes will help solve the sustainability issues of CIA resources. The present study analyzed the chemical compositions of CIA flower essential oil (CO) and stem and leaf extract (CE) by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC–MS) and ultra-performance liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS). Then, the phytochemical properties, stability, antioxidant capacity, and cell (human L929) toxicity of CO and CE were further evaluated. Finally, oil-in-water microemulsion (ME) and hyaluronic acid hydrogel systems composed of CO and CE were developed to deliver bioactive ingredients effectively. The analysis identified 64 and 31 compounds in CO and CE, respectively, and indicated them as readily available sources of natural antioxidants, such as flavonoids and phenols. In addition, the formulation of the ME system (CIA-ME) improved CO stability and increased CE loading; these optimal formulations (ME, CIA-ME, CIA-ME gel) exhibited good stability, rheological properties, and sustained release properties without causing cell toxicity and skin irritation. The CIA-ME significantly inhibited intracellular tyrosinase activity and decreased intracellular melanin production in a dose-dependent manner. It also demonstrated skin photoprotection and inhibited tyrosinase, collagenase, and elastase activities. Overall, CIA as a plant raw material can serve as a promising topical cosmetic or medicine prototype. Applying CO and CE in combination provides a basis for the sustainable utilization of CIA resources.
Chrysanthemum indicum var. aromaticum is a new variety in the family Compositae and is an aromatic plant resource with high economic value that was first discovered in Shennongjia, Hubei, China. In this work, an improved technique for collecting essential oil from leaves using solvent-less microwave irradiation-induced hydrodistillation and extraction in situ was developed. We extensively investigated a few of the variables that could impact essential oil yield using Pareto analysis and Box‒Behnken design response surface analysis. The highest yield of the essential oil under optimal circumstances was 7.22 ± 0.31 mL/kg DW. The results of GC‒MS analysis showed that C. indicum var. aromaticum leaf essential oil mainly contained terpenes, and the main abundant components were myrtene acetate (21.72%) and cis -sabinol (19.23%). And the first-order kinetic model demonstrated a better fit for the SLMHD. SLMHD (microwave irradiation power 540 W) for 30 min gives a higher yield of essential oil than conventional HD (heating power 450 W) for 180 min, i.e., the emission of CO 2 , the main greenhouse gas, is reduced from 1080 g for 180 min in conventional HD (heating power 450 W) to 216 g in SLMHD. It can be shown that for the same power consumption, SLMHD can indeed obtain more essential oil. The operator's working hours can be significantly reduced because of the quicker response time, which can help cut labor expenses. Taking all these points into account, further development of the approach could yield good economic benefits.