Peptides are the fundamental structural units of proteins, consisting of specific sequences of amino acids linked by peptide bonds. Peptides composed of two amino acids are called dipeptides, those of three amino acids are called tripeptides, and so on. In cosmetics, commonly used peptides are typically small peptides, generally ranging from dipeptides to decapeptides in length.

Compared with other substances, peptides exhibit notable bioactivity and diversity. They play critical roles in growth, development, and metabolism, and are key regulators in skin aging and care. Skin aging, manifested by wrinkles and dullness, is influenced both by external factors such as ultraviolet radiation and internal factors such as reduced epidermal turnover, diminished dermal function, and weakened immunity and metabolism. Among these, the major cause is free radical-induced cellular aging; thus, scavenging or inhibiting free radicals can effectively delay skin aging.

Small peptides are non-toxic, highly bioactive, and easily absorbed, with distinct physiological functions that can fundamentally improve a range of skin issues. In cosmetics, peptides with demonstrable beauty-enhancing effects are referred to as cosmetic peptides, also known as “cosmeceutical peptides.” Cosmetic peptides in skincare can be broadly categorized as follows:

Anti-wrinkle and muscle-relaxing peptides: These peptides inhibit neural transmission to relax facial muscles, smoothing dynamic and static wrinkles as well as fine lines. Representative examples include Syn-Ake, Leuphasyl, Vialox, Argireline, Snap-7, and Snap-8.

Collagen-stimulating peptides: These peptides promote the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid, enhancing skin hydration and thickness. Representative examples include Matrixyl, Serilesine, and Palmitoyl Oligopeptide.

Antioxidant and anti-glycation peptides: These peptides protect collagen from damage and promote type III collagen synthesis. Representative examples include Carnosine, Aldeline, and the copper peptide GHK-Cu.

Circulation-enhancing peptides: These peptides reduce edema, improve microcirculation, and mitigate inflammation. Representative examples include Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3.

Whitening peptides: These peptides reduce melanin production by blocking MSH signaling. A representative example is Nonapeptide.

Figure 1. Chemical Structure of Hexapeptide

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